Samarkand to Bukhara: Riding the Silk Road by Train in 8 Days
The turquoise tiles caught the late afternoon sun and threw light across the courtyard in patterns I wasn't expecting. I'd been staring at photos of Registan Square for months, but standing there with the heat pressing against my shoulders and the sound of sparrows echoing off 600-year-old walls, the scale of it knocked the planning right out of my head. Traveling from Samarkand to Bukhara by train is one of the most rewarding routes in Central Asia, and it's far easier to pull off than most people think.
Uzbekistan has quietly become one of the most accessible countries in the region. Visa-free entry for many nationalities, a modern high-speed rail network, and prices that make Southeast Asia look expensive. Eight days gives you enough time to soak in both cities without rushing, and the Afrosiyob train connecting them takes just under two hours.
Must-See Attractions from Samarkand to Bukhara
In Samarkand, Registan Square is the anchor. Three massive madrasas face each other across a central plaza, and the tilework on the Sher-Dor Madrasa (with its unusual tiger mosaics) is worth a full hour of slow walking. Entry runs about 40,000 som (roughly $3 USD). Go early, before 9 AM, when tour groups are still at breakfast.
Shah-i-Zinda, the avenue of mausoleums climbing a hillside north of Registan, is the site that stays with you longest. Each tomb is covered in different tile patterns, some dating to the 14th century. It's free to enter and rarely crowded before noon. Skip the heavily restored Bibi-Khanym Mosque (it's impressive from outside but hollow inside) and instead walk to the Ulugh Beg Observatory, where a 15th-century astronomer mapped the stars with remarkable accuracy.
In Bukhara, the Kalon Minaret and its surrounding complex are the centerpiece. The Ark Fortress, a massive citadel that served as the Emir's palace, offers a welcome break from screens with its rooftop views across the old city.
Local Culture & Experiences
Plov is the national dish, and every city claims theirs is the best. In Samarkand, the version served at the Central Bazaar's plov center (ask anyone for 'osh markazi') uses yellow carrots, chickpeas, and whole garlic heads slow-cooked in a massive cast-iron kazan. A plate costs 15,000 som. The cook handed me mine with a nod and a piece of flatbread the size of a steering wheel. I ate the whole thing.
Bukhara's food scene is quieter but equally rewarding. Lyabi-Hauz, the plaza built around a 17th-century pool, is lined with chaikhanas (teahouses) where older men play backgammon over green tea. Try the shashlik at Old Bukhara Restaurant on Nakshbandi Street. Tea culture here isn't ceremonial the way it is in Japan or Morocco, but it's constant. You'll be offered tea everywhere, and refusing it feels like refusing a handshake.
One thing to know: haggling in bazaars is expected, but it's gentle. Start at about 60% of the asking price and meet in the middle. Silk scarves and ceramic bowls are the best buys.
Hidden Gems & Insider Tips
In Samarkand, walk past the tourist zone south of Registan toward the Hazrat Khizr Mosque. It sits on a bluff overlooking the city and gets almost no foot traffic. On my last visit, I had the terrace to myself for nearly an hour. The caretaker brought tea without being asked.
Bukhara's Jewish Quarter, centered around the 16th-century synagogue on Kukelash Street, tells a story most guidebooks skip entirely. The small community that remains is welcoming to visitors, and the building itself is modest but moving. For food lovers who enjoy market culture, Bukhara's Toqi-Sarrafon trading dome still operates as a working bazaar with spice vendors and silk merchants.
A fair warning about Bukhara: some of the carpet shops near Lyabi-Hauz are pushy, and the 'free tea' invitation often turns into a hard sell. Politely decline and keep walking.
Sample Itinerary
Days 1-4: Samarkand. Arrive and settle in (guesthouses near Registan start at $15/night). Day 2: Registan, Shah-i-Zinda, and the bazaar. Day 3: Ulugh Beg Observatory, Afrosiab Museum, and the paper-making workshop in Konigil village (a 20-minute taxi ride, about 20,000 som each way). Day 4: Hazrat Khizr Mosque, slow morning at a chaikhana, evening walk through the old Tajik neighborhood.
Day 5: Train to Bukhara. The Afrosiyob departs at 7:30 AM and arrives by 9:15 AM. Tickets cost about 90,000 som ($7) for economy class. Book at the station or through the Uzbekistan Railways app.
Days 5-8: Bukhara. Day 5 afternoon: Kalon complex and Ark Fortress. Day 6: Trading domes, Jewish Quarter, and the Ismail Samani Mausoleum. Day 7: Day trip to Chor-Bakr necropolis outside town (15-minute taxi). Day 8: Morning at Lyabi-Hauz, pack up, and depart.
Practical Travel Tips
Best time to visit: April to early June, or September to October. Summers push past 40°C and the heat makes sightseeing brutal. I went in early October and the weather was perfect, warm days and cool evenings.
Getting around: Within cities, shared taxis (ask for 'taksi') cost 5,000-10,000 som per ride. Yandex Go works in both cities for ride-hailing. The right travel apps make navigation simple even without Uzbek or Russian.
Budget: You can comfortably spend $25-35 per day including accommodation, food, and transport. ATMs are widely available in both cities, and the som is stable. Bring USD as backup for exchanging at bazaars.
Safety: Uzbekistan is remarkably safe for travelers. Petty crime is rare, and locals are genuinely curious about visitors. Women traveling solo should dress modestly near religious sites but won't face harassment.
I still think about the evening I sat on the steps of Registan Square after the tourists left. The security guard waved me closer and pointed up at the stars appearing above the minarets. He didn't speak English and I don't speak Uzbek, but he grinned and gestured like he was saying, 'This is why we live here.' That's the version of Uzbekistan I'd want anyone to see. Have you considered adding Central Asia to your travel list?
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a visa to travel from Samarkand to Bukhara?
Citizens of over 90 countries (including the US, UK, EU, Canada, and Australia) can enter Uzbekistan visa-free for up to 30 days. No pre-registration is required. Check your country's status on the Uzbekistan MFA website before booking.
How do I book the Afrosiyob train from Samarkand to Bukhara?
You can book through the Uzbekistan Railways website or app up to 45 days in advance. Tickets sell out on weekends and holidays, so book at least a week ahead. You can also buy tickets at the station, but arrive early. Economy class costs about 90,000 som ($7 USD).
Is Uzbekistan expensive to visit?
Not at all. A comfortable mid-range budget runs $25-35 per day including a private guesthouse room, three meals, entrance fees, and local transport. Budget travelers staying in hostels can get by on $15-20 per day. This makes it one of the cheapest countries in Central Asia.
Is the Samarkand to Bukhara route safe for solo travelers?
Uzbekistan consistently ranks as one of the safest countries in Central Asia. Violent crime against tourists is extremely rare, and locals are hospitable. Solo female travelers should dress modestly at religious sites but generally report feeling very safe throughout the country.
Can I use credit cards in Samarkand and Bukhara?
Larger hotels and some restaurants accept Visa and Mastercard, but Uzbekistan is still largely a cash economy. ATMs are available in both cities, and they dispense Uzbek som. Bring US dollars as backup for exchanging at bazaars or banks. Avoid exchanging money with street vendors.